Monday, June 14, 2004

A Time for Pondering

The rest of Harris was cool too, just not much by comparison. It held much grand, rockier terrain, hills, and mountains than anywhere we’d seen before. Most of Scotland is beautiful rocky terrain, I know, but most of it is also covered in green. In Harris the rock was exposed in a way that it wasn’t elsewhere. Dramatically different on a large scale, but hardly less beautiful.

On the way back, Scott caught a trout at a pretty lake we stopped at (which had, as always, a lovely view and serene atmosphere). More significantly we stopped at the well preserved (and in parts reconstructed) church of St. Columbus. I didn’t have much foreknowledge about this place before we stopped. The church was truly runes, but the preservation made it seem potentially still in use, so well kept it was.

The acoustics were wonderful, for one thing (I know, probably not what you expected me to rant about) especially in the staircase. There were other people about, so I didn’t sing too much, but when I did it was resounding. Just as we were leaving, a person bearing a harmonica entered the church in our wake, and we could hear the most beautiful harmonica I’ve ever heard (I didn’t think a harmonica could sound so lovely!) resounding from inside.

What the church might be most famous (or infamous) for, is that on the outside back of the church, a young lady is carved between the first and second floor. Her facial features are entirely absent; she had a blank face. But, because her skirts are lifted high, a pair of plump lips do indeed appear on the drawing. Apparently this scandalous carving was created by locals with the belief that it would distract evil spirits. My father suggested that the real reason may have been that they needed something to motivate men to go to church.

Also of interest to an anti-Cromwellian such as myself, was found in the church graveyard where a grave boasted a man who had died fighting Cromwell’s armies. I wish I could remember the man’s name.

When we finally got back, quite late, we ate at a place called the Sunset Restaurant. The food was okay, I had the Hebrides Strong Ale (local) and found it very much to my liking.

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